The Rissani market
Every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, Rissani hosts the local market for the area. Locals, and a few visitors departing the desert, shop the market for produce, meat, spices, crafts, bikes, goods and even donkeys?
We parked just off the main street in what was one-third car lot, one-third donkey lot and one-third date market. In this parking lot alone there were over 20 varieties of dates for sale.
Mohammed led us across the road where we entered the main market. The pathway was flooded with mud from last night’s rainstorm. Busy market-goers whizzed by on donkeys and bikes while lazy shop-tenders rested in the shade or chatted with their neighbors.
We stopped to say hello to the donkeys, the cows and the lambs.
The aromas, the colors and the chatter in Rissani are not what you find in a city. This was real, there was no show to put on or knickknacks to sell. Just an ordinary day in Rissani.
I would’ve loved to spend a few hours snapping photos and tasting the dates, but I didn’t want to be disrespectful or be on a sugar high.
Lunch in the palm groves
We stopped for lunch at a friendly restaurant overlooking a large palm oasis. Nearly 100 varieties of dates grow in Moroccan palm trees. Of the many varieties, the most popular are Medjool, Deglet Noor, and the Halawi date. Some sweeter than others, dates are used in both savory and sweet dishes in Morocco and often served as a snack.
But back to lunch. The two waiters could entertain in nearly a dozen languages. Dressed in traditional garb, one quickly become our friend, much like most of the other men we’d met so far. Moroccans are without a doubt some of the friendliest people I’ve encountered in my travels.
Among the desert lunches, this one was the best–good quality and great service. Unfortunately, there was no couscous that day, so I went with a Berber omelette and the others ordered kebab or tajine. The bread was fresh, the salad was plentiful and finally a bit of spice. Plus, our waiter and new friend was a selfie-feen. What more could you ask for?
Hotel Rose du Sable
After relaxing a bit, we drove a short distance to Agdz where we spent the evening at Hotel Rose du Sable. Rose du Sable is an ornately decorated bed and breakfast housed in an old kasbah. The staff was absolutely incredible.
We arrived around 4pm with some time to relax and read by the wading pool. The outdoor space was exactly what we needed after all that driving. Before dinner we took out the dominoes for a competitive match, of which my partner and I won. Don’t mind if I do.
Due to another thunderstorm (we really took the Dutch weather with us), dinner was served inside. The food was delicious. Moroccan soup and dates, Moroccan salad and meat medallions with lentils and eggplant and fresh fruit to end. I would definitely recommend staying here if you find yourself somewhere between Morocco and the Sahara.
The Atlas Mountains
The next morning, we had breakfast and left early to get on the road for our last day of driving. We zigzagged through the Atlas Mountains until we reached Marrakesh.
The Atlas Mountains are home to local Berber people. There aren’t many, if any, shops, stores or restaurants in the mountains. Most locals rely on long treks to bigger villages to shop.
The Berber people
The Berber people are craftsman at heart. They practice ancient carpentry techniques, weave carpets, embroider leather, spin pots and more. Most of these crafts are dying out due to their under appreciation, but the tourists are helping make the traditions profitable again. Locals travel to the cities to sell and exchange their goods to other locals and of course, tourists.
After an hour or so, the winding roads, ups and downs, twists and turns were making my stomach flip and flop. This ride was almost as vomit-inducing as that hungover drive along the Amalfi Coast.
When we finally reached Marrakech, I was so happy to be in a city again. Maybe I really am a city girl at heart.
