Madrid is not only the geographic center of Spain but it is also the epicenter of Spanish culture. Home to the extensive art collections at El Prado and La Reina Sofía museums, the world renowned Real Madrid soccer team, and some of the most magnificent cuisine in the world. 

Despite all Madrid has to offer, sometimes enough is enough. Feel like you’ve seen it all or just need a change of pace? Want to escape city life for a day or even just a few hours? The answer is Toledo. Whether you are a tourist or a local, Toledo has plenty to offer even the most traveled folk. 

Toledo sits high on a hill overlooking the expansive plains of Castilla La Mancha. The former medieval capital of Spain earned it’s place as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1986. Known by many as the city of three cultures, Toledo is heavily influenced by Christian, Muslim, and Jewish heritage. The city offers an extensive selection of temples, synagogues, churches, convents, cathedrals and mosques in addition to an incredible selection of fine cuisine and public spaces. The multiculturalism is evident in everything from the architecture to the food. Toledo is a popular day trip destination from Madrid, but this picturesque medieval town warrants far more than an afternoon. After the street lights come on, there is a whole new dimension to Toledo that few travelers ever witness. 

Whether you have only a few hours or a more flexible schedule, here is your complete guide to a memorable stay in Toledo. 

The Complete Guide to Toledo

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How to get to Toledo

Train 

Getting to Toledo from Madrid is simple and inexpensive. The high speed AVE train from Madrid Puerta de Atocha Station to Toledo takes a total of 33 minutes and costs €14 each way. The trains run from 8:50 am to 9:50 pm with about 13 trips per day. This is the most efficient way to get to Toledo. 

You can buy your tickets for the high speed AVE train online by clicking here. 

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Bus

Option number 2 is the bus. Alsa is the bus company that is most popular around Spain. There are daily buses departing every half hour from Madrid Plaza Eliptica to the Toledo bus station for €5.42 each way. The first bus leaves Madrid at 5 am and the last bus departs Toledo at 11:30 pm. This journey is about an hour and a half in duration. 

You can buy your tickets for the ALSA Bus from Madrid to Toledo by clicking here. 

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Where to stay

On a budget

Located in the heart of the Templar neighborhood, Albergue Los Pascuales Hostel is the friendliest place to rest your head in all of Spain. The staff are caring and generous making for a comfortable and safe stay. All rooms are equipped with individual lockers, air conditioning,  central heating, shared bathrooms, linens, towels and wifi. The hostel has only 23 beds making it a cozy place to stay. They do include a continental breakfast but I would advise you that this is not what Americans think of as a continental breakfast. We were given two mini lemon muffins each and a cup of instant coffee or tea. Definitely plan to purchase your breakfast, unless of course you eat as little as a bird.

You can reserve your room by clicking here. 

Cuesta de Pascuales, 8

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Splurge

If you prefer modern luxury, Antidoto Rooms are the way to go. The 10 room guesthouse is located in a 16th century building at the heart of Toledo just steps away from Zocodover square. Recently renovated, the modern clean design is complimented by the ancient Roman brick walls and wooden beams. Despite the minimalist design, Antidoto Rooms provides all the amenities you will need for an enjoyable stay in Toledo. The rooftop terrace on it’s own is enough to make any traveler want to stay here. 

You can reserve your room at Antidoto Rooms by clicking here.

Calle Recoletos, 2

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Where to eat 

The food in Toledo is rich and flavorful. Game meats like venison, wild boar, quail and rabbit are popular menu items. They are often served in rich stews or paired with hearty vegetables. The perfect type of food for winter weather. Other popular dishes showcase local honey, herbs, and vegetables. Roasted red peppers and wild mushrooms are two favorites. Equally loved are wine and cheese. The La Mancha region is the original producer of Manchego cheese. The cheese pairs very well with their regional red wine. As far as sweets go, marzipan is Toledo’s most popular confection. Said to be derived from Arabic roots, the Christian convents are the most likely of places to find marzipan these days. Marzipan is traditionally made with sugar and almonds but nowadays there are a wide variety of familial sweets sold in marzipan shops. 

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Restaurante Fabula 

A father son duo own Restaurante Fabula and Taberna Embrujo. Restaurante Fabula is the son’s place. Using only the finest and freshest ingredients in Toledo is important to this pair and it is evident in their dishes. Game meats are what you should order here, but don’t count out the vegetarian dishes. Affordable prices and traditional flavors make Fabula an excellent restaurant for lunch or dinner. 

Calle la Merced, 6

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Taberna Embrujo

Part of the father-son pair, this is dad’s restaurant and is one of the local favorites. The restaurant is small and there is limited seating so arrive early, have a drink at the bar, and wait for your table. You won’t want to miss this meal. The waitstaff at Taberna Embrujo is super friendly, speaks great English, and is excited to share their family restaurant with you. Order media raciones (that’s half orders) and split a few dishes between your party so that you can taste as many dishes as possible. Try champiñones a la plancha (grilled mushrooms), chipirones encebolladas (grilled squid and onions), verduras fritas (mixed vegetables) , or oreja a la plancha (grilled pigs ear). Keep in mind they are closed on Sundays. 

Calle de Sta Leocadia, 6

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La Abadía 

La Abadía stands apart from some of the other popular restaurants in Toledo for two reasons. La Abadía brews their own beer and serves vegetarian friendly fare. Both a rarity in Spain. The upstairs houses a bar with limited seating and serves tapas and drinks all day. Downstairs, you will find yourself in a dimly lit sixteenth century cave. This is where you should go for dinner or lunch. Try ensalada de verduras, a very generous serving of simply grilled vegetables and lasagna de berenjena con miel y pipas, an eggplant lasagna with goat cheese, honey, and pine nuts. Don’t forget to try their beer too!

Plaza San Nicol’s, 3

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Mercado de San Agustín 

In the heart of the old town, is a newly renovated 23 stall market. The market is most reminiscent of El Mercado de San Miguel in neighboring Madrid. The 23 stalls serve everything from shellfish to croissants in the elegantly modern venue. There are four stories and ample seating available. The top floor is dedicated to a cocktail bar not so cleverly called the Coctelería and now holds the place as Toledo’s trendiest new bar. Open from 10 am to 10 pm daily and as late as midnight on weekends, el Mercado de San Agustín is becoming the in vogue place to be and be seen. 

Cuesta del Aguila, 3

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What to buy

Marzipan

You know those realistic looking fruits and shapes people decorate with at Christmas time? The ones they claim are edible but this one time you bit into one as a kid and discovered, no, they are not nearly as delicious as they look? That’s marzipan. Marzipan in Toledo is quite different from in the states. Sure, it’s still made with the same basic ingredients, sugar and almonds, but somehow they transform it into a delicious pastry. So good in fact, this confection has been the most popular dessert in Toledo since as early as 1150. The history is controversial, but it’s agreed upon that Toledo does it best. Marzipan from Toledo is shipped internationally and is especially popular during the holiday season. There are two great places to buy marzipan in Toledo. 

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Pastelería Santo Tomé

Pastelería Santo Tomé prides themselves on using the highest quality all natural ingredients in their confections. These include sugar, honey, eggs and almonds. In order to please the masses, they have added chocolate, spices, fruits, and other nuts over the centuries. Order the pastas imperiales, pastas de piñón, or the delicias de mazapán (marzapan delights) if you are looking for traditionally delicious confections. The chocolate dipped shells are excellent for chocaholics too! Oh, and don’t forget to peak in the windows. The Santo Tomé shops are known for their extravagant marzipan sculptures. 

Plaza Zocodover, 7 and Calle Santo Tomé, 3 and Calle Colombia, 17

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Convento de San Antonio de Padua

The nuns at Convento de San Antonio are hard at work preparing homemade and traditional marzapan daily. Sure, you can buy marzipan at plenty of places in Toledo, even the convenience stores carry it! But it is great to support the nuns at Convento de San Antonio. The marzipan here is less sweet than at Santo Tomé and a bit more dense. I would recommend ordering a box if you have plenty of friends to share it with. Otherwise, you can buy individual pieces to enjoy on the spot. The fish shape are always cute!

Calle Santo Tome, 27

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Swords, sabers, and armor

This one may be a little tough to get past airport security. Since as early as 500 BC, Toledo has been known for producing the best steel worldwide. This steel was used to make the strongest and most reliable swords for all the superior European armies. Nowadays, these swords will still cost you a pretty penny, at least a few hundred euros. Maybe a wooden one is more in your price range?

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What to see

Alcázar de Toledo

The Alcázar is one of the two most popular landmarks in Toledo. The present day building was ordered to be built by Emperor Carlos V as the royal residence. Unfortunate for Carlos V, the building was never used as a royal residence. This is because prior to construction being completed, the capital of Spain relocated to Madrid. The building was targeted by fires and wars over the centuries and nearly completely destroyed by 1936. Renovations began in 1940. Today it is home to the Army Museum and the Library of Castilla de la Mancha. I recommend skipping this museum and viewing the Alcázar from the outside only. Your time and pennies are better spent elsewhere.

Calle Unión

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The Gothic Cathedral

The second of the two most visited landmarks in Toledo is the Santa Iglesia Catedral Primada. It is crowned by a 100 meter (that’s about 328 feet!) spire that is visible from miles around. Beautiful from the outside but even more impressive is its size and prized possessions indoors. The Cathedral is home to paintings by El Greco, Raphael, Goya and Bellini to name only a few. 

Calle Cardenal Cisneros, 1

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Santa María La Blanca

Other popular religious monuments include Iglesia de los Jesuitas, Mezquita Cristo de La Luz, Iglesia del Salvador, Iglesia de Santo Tomé, Sinagoga de Santa María La Blanca, and Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes. If I were to choose only one to visit it would be Santa María La Blanca. The structure contains 28 white intricately carved arches. Santa María La Blanca was originally home to a synagogue, the arches were crafted by the Moorish, and it was later converted to a church. This building is a hallmark for how the city of three cultures came to be. After visiting, wander the charming streets around La Blanca that are home to the Jewish quarter. 

Calle de los Reyes Católicos, 4

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What to Do

Walk the Senda Ecológica Riberas del Tajo 

The Senda Ecológica Riberas del Tajo takes walkers along the Tagus River to explore smaller villages and fishing areas at the base of Toledo. This is an excellent place to get some exercise, escape the tourists, and see some nature. This river walk takes about one hour to complete. A great place to start the walk is at the Puente de Alcántara. 

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 Mirador del Valle

Not in the mood to put on your walking shoes? Take a cab over to the Mirador del Valle. It is located across the river Tagus and is the best way to appreciate Toledo in all it’s glory. From this point you will be able to admire the clay colored rooftops, impressive spires, and the city at large. 

Ctra. Circunvalación

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The Don Quijote Walk 

The Don Quijote walk is a 2,000 km long route that passes through 48 towns in Spain. These are towns believed to be visited by Don Quijote in Miguel de Cervantes famous early seventeenth century novel El Ingenioso Hidalgo Don Quijote de La Mancha. Now, most people do not have the time to complete the entire walk. Thankfully, a section of it passes through Toledo. The Mirador del Valle is a stop along this route. To complete the entire length of the journey from Puente de Alcántara to Puente de San Martín takes about an hour and a half. It is well worth the trip if you have the time. This is the best way to get postcard worthy photos. 

What is your favorite thing to do in Toledo, Spain?