The Amalfi Coast

An Insider’s Guide to Positano: Tips for Your Perfect Trip

I’ve visited Positano twice – once for a single, rushed day trip, and more recently for a longer, magical stay. That first trip simply wasn’t enough. Here is my complete guide to Positano. Plan your trip the right way, so you can truly “pause” and experience the magic that is Positano. 

Positano. Just the name evokes images of pastel-colored houses tumbling on steep cliffs over a sparkling, sun-drenched sea. But let’s be honest: planning a trip to this iconic village can be as overwhelming as it is beautiful.

How do you even get there? Where should you start looking for a hotel on that steep cliff? And is it worth the money? 

How Long Should You Stay in Positano?

On my first visit years ago, I was in Positano for just one day. It was beautiful, yes, but also hot and chaotic. During the day, the cobbled streets are so crowded with tour groups that you can barely move.

This time, my experience was entirely different. By staying for a few nights, we got to enjoy the real Positano. In the mornings and evenings, the village is somehow both calm and alive. This is the magic you came all this way to experience.

Fun Fact: The name Positano is said to have come from the Latin word pausa, meaning a “place to stop.” You can only truly stop and admire this dramatic seaside village if you give yourself time.

I recommend staying in Positano for three to five days. This gives you enough time to use Positano as your home base for exploring the Amalfi Coast. You can take day trips and boat rides to places like Capri, Sorrento, and Ravello, and still have those peaceful mornings and evenings in town.

When is the Best Time to Visit Positano?

My advice is to visit Positano during the shoulder seasons: May or September.

Here’s why:

  • You’ll (mostly) avoid the excessive summer crowds
  • You’ll skip the unbearable midday heat of July and August
  • Accommodation prices are often more reasonable
  • I found the locals to be more relaxed and friendly during these less-frantic months

How to Get to Positano from Naples Guide

If you’re already in Italy or arriving from abroad, chances are you’ll travel to Positano from Naples. You have a few options, and I have a very strong opinion on the best (and worst) one.

Option 1: Private Transfer (The Easiest Way)

This is the easiest, most comfortable option, especially if you’re in a group.

  • Time: The drive from Naples to Positano is about 1 hour 20 minutes, but I’d allow 2 hours with traffic.
  • Why it’s great: It’s door-to-door. You don’t have to transfer, haul luggage, or worry about driving yourself. Many drivers will also offer to stop in Pompeii on the way.
  • Cost: We used Sorrento Insider and it cost €376 roundtrip for 5 adults.

Option 2: Public Transport (The Budget-Friendly Way)

This is a decent option, but be prepared for multiple steps.

  • Step 1 (Train): Take the Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrento. It costs about €8 and takes about one hour.
  • Step 2 (Ferry or Bus):
    • By Ferry: From Sorrento, the ferry to Positano takes ~40 minutes and costs ~€50 one-way. From the port, you will have a very steep uphill hike to your hotel.
    • By Bus: The SITA bus from Sorrento to Positano is cheaper (around €5) but takes about one hour on extremely winding roads.

Public transport schedule here

Option 3: Rent a Car (The “Please Don’t Do It” Way)

I do not recommend renting a car. If you want to take a day trip, rent a car for one day.

  • Parking: Parking in Positano is near-impossible. Street parking is mostly forbidden, and a garage can easily cost upward of €80 per day.
  • The Drive: The roads are harrowing, narrow, and not for the faint of heart.
  • Cost: A 5-day rental might look cheap at ~€250, but add gas and €400 in parking, and it’s suddenly the most expensive option.

My #1 Transport Tip: For all options, including the private transfer, I recommend taking Dramamine if you get motion sickness easily. Those winding coastal roads are no joke. We were nearly surviving!

Is Positano Expensive? (An Honest Answer)

The short answer is yes. Compared to most Italian seaside villages, Positano is one of the most expensive. This is largely due to the high demand from American and British tourists. Hotels that might have cost €100 a night ten years ago can now cost five times that.

Overall, budget for a trip to Positano like you would for a major city like London or Paris.

Additionally, when considering accommodation, note that during the high season, April 1 – Oct 31, the tax is €3 per night per person. During the rest of the year it is €1.50 per night per person. 

Where to Stay in Positano: A Neighborhood Guide

Choosing where to stay is tricky because it’s hard to grasp the steepness of the village from photos. Positano is beautiful, but it is not easily accessible. Be prepared for lots of stairs, narrow alleys, and steep inclines.

Pro-Tip: Check if your accommodation offers a porter service to carry your bags from the road or port. I highly recommend this if you aren’t packing light. 

The Western Hills (Near Fornillo Beach)

This area is quaint and quiet, with impressive views. To get down to the main beach (Positano Spiaggia) and the center will take some effort, but you’re close to many shops and restaurants on the upper road, Viale Pasitea.

The Eastern Hills (Near Via C. Colombo)

This is where I stayed on my recent trip with my girlfriends at an apartment we loved called Casa Lou (booked via Booking.com). The views were breathtaking. This side is also great if you plan to hike the Path of the Gods, as the bus stop is nearby. Be warned: it’s a lot of stairs if you plan to walk across to the west side for dinner.

Casa Lou cost us €4,241 for 5 adults for 5 nights. That comes to €170 per person per night. 

The Center (Near Marina Grande)

You can stay near the main church (Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta) if you want to be in the heart of the action. However, I personally don’t recommend this. Every day, these narrow streets are overcrowded with day-trippers. It can be overwhelming and strips away the village’s charm.

Check places to stay in Positano

What to Do in Positano Guide

  • Hike the Path of the Gods: One of the most famous hikes in the world, offering staggering views of the coastline. Note, the Path of the Gods is not an easy hike. Some portions are steep and the terrain can be challenging.
  • Charter a Boat: See the coast from the water – it’s a must! You can take a day trip to Capri or just explore the local coves. We walked down to the Marina Grande and inquired at one of the little huts along the water. There is a wide price range, so just choose what’s most suitable for you. A great choice is Luxury Experiences.
  • Relax at a Luxury Beach Club: For a true splurge day, book a chair at an iconic spot like Arienzo Beach Club.
  • Shop for Custom Sandals: Pop into a shop, get your feet measured, and have a pair of custom leather sandals made for you in under an hour.
  • Explore Fornillo Beach: A smaller, more local-feeling beach just a short walk from the main port.
  • Hop on a ferry: Head over to Sorrento or Capri for the day and enjoy another part of the Amalfi Coast.

Where to Eat and Drink in Positano Guide

  • Franco’s Bar: Yes, it’s a touristy destination, but the ambience is sheer perfection. Choose your favorite cocktail, indulge in the free popcorn and olives, and take in the breathtaking views. Pro tip: Go just before opening or late to avoid a queue.
  • Simone’s Sandwiches: Simone’s is a roadside stop with quick service and hefty burgers and sandwiches for lunch or dinner. After a long day in the sun, this is exactly what you need.
  • Da Vincenzo: You’ll need to book this one well in advance. Da Vincenzo sits up on the hills and is an upscale restaurant with great local food.
  • Ristorante Saraceno d’Oro: A fantastic, slightly more casual spot on the “western” side of town with amazing pizza and pasta. People without reservations queue on the street, but you can also book in advance. Try to reserve a table outside for a better experience.
  • Il Ritrovo: Located in the village of Montepertuso above Positano. The food is served family style, and they offer a free shuttle to pick you up and drop you off in Positano. This is a bit of a journey, but if you have time, a fun one.

I hope you enjoyed this starter guide to Positano. Continue reading for more tips on the Amalfi Coast.

jadegoldsmith@gmail.com

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