Here’s a fact I learned the hard way: Cusco, Peru sits at a staggering 3,399 m (11,152 ft), while Machu Picchu is actually a lot lower at 2,430 m (7,972 ft).
I had no idea. I thought I was doing the right thing by acclimating in Cusco for a few days before the Salkantay Trek. Turns out, I was a bit off – classic rookie mistake.
This is why so many better-informed travelers head straight from Cusco airport to lower-altitude destinations in the Sacred Valley, like Ollantaytambo (2,792 m / 9,160 ft) or Urubamba (2,871 m / 9,416 ft).
I made the impromptu decision to visit Ollantaytambo after my five-day trek, and it was the best decision of my trip. The train to and from Aguas Calientes (Machu Picchu) stops in Ollantaytambo. I abandoned my group there rather than taking the two hour bus back to Cusco.
Cutting that final leg off not only saved me time but introduced me to what I believe is the most beautiful and charming village in the Sacred Valley.
Ollantaytambo is famous for being the most well-preserved, continuously inhabited Inca settlement in Peru. And you can feel it right away, just by walking the streets.
Ollantaytambo was the royal estate of the Emperor Pachacuti, considered the visionary Inca ruler who built Machu Picchu in the 15th century.
For the Incas, Ollantaytambo was a very important agricultural, religious and military hub. The village’s most important moment was in 1537, when the Spanish conquistadores arrived. The Inca leader used the town’s terraces to cleverly flood the valley below, trapping the Spanish and forcing them to leave. A truly brilliant victory.
My favorite part of Ollantaytambo was simply getting lost in its charming, narrow cobbled streets. The old village is small, but each alleyway reveals impressive stone water channels that have been flowing for centuries. The water runs from an ancient spring on its way to the Urubamba River.
There are three main archaeological sites here, but the main one is unmissable. It’s part of the “Boleto Turistico” (Tourist Ticket). Depending on your Sacred Valley plans, you can buy a partial or full pass to see other sites (like Pisaq, Moray, and Chinchero).
If you’re thinking about skipping the main site, don’t. It’s truly impressive, with exquisite stonework and so many sacred temples to marvel at, like the Temple of the Sun. I loved walking around just after it opened at 7 am. I had most of the massive complex to myself.
Just beneath the entrance to the ruins, you’ll find a large souvenir market. I know what you’re thinking – more of the same tourist junk. But I found this market to be different. You can find a lot of genuine artisan goods made by locals.
Shop for soft alpaca clothing, quartz jewelry, handwoven textiles, and more. The shop owners are lovely and not nearly as pushy as in other places I visited. It’s a perfect opportunity to have a chat and practice your Spanish.
I was absolutely gutted that I missed this, but it gives me the perfect reason to go back to the Sacred Valley. If you want to learn the ancient art of weaving and directly support the women of the Andes, Awamaki is the non-profit to look for.
They invest in women-led businesses and connect them with global markets (I’m a huge fan of organizations like this, similar to my favorite travel bag from Kirana Likha). They offer various experiences, from weaving lessons to community visits. If you’re short on time, you can still visit their fair-trade shop in town.
Yes, I’m obsessed with food markets, and the Sacred Valley is full of them. The Mercado de Abastos, just behind the Plaza de Armas, is the heart of real life in Ollantaytambo.
This is where locals shop. On the first floor, you’ll find fruits, vegetables, grains, and plenty of butchers (be prepared for large pig heads). The second floor has juice stands and home goods, and the top floor is packed with breakfast bars serving caldo de gallina (chicken soup) to hungry locals.
Ollantaytambo is the perfect hub for DIY day trips. You don’t need a formal tour. Just hop in a “colectivo,” the local minivan system that connects the Sacred Valley. It’s incredibly cheap, a ride to Urubamba costs only 3 soles (less than
As a climber, I was dying to get on the rock in the Sacred Valley. Lucky for me, I found Peru Climbing Experiences. I went climbing with them and had a 10/10 day. I couldn’t recommend the guides enough. If you’re in Ollantaytambo or Urubamba and have any interest in climbing, definitely get in touch with them. Here’s my full review.
I stayed at Hostal El Viajero. It’s definitely bare-bones, but the staff is incredibly friendly, and the rooftop has impressive views overlooking the archaeological sites. It was super affordable, I paid only €57 for three nights for a private room with a private bathroom. I didn’t find much of a “hostel” vibe here, but as a budget-friendly home base, it was perfect.
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